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Hank Shaw likes to say he was born to fish.

“I’ve been in and around fish and seafood since before I was born,” says Shaw, whose mother and stepfather shared their passion for casting and clam-digging while he was growing up in New Jersey. “You do something your whole life and it’s a part of who you are. I can’t think of life without fishing.”

Shaw has fished all over the United States, Canada, and Mexico, including for pleasure, as a commercial fisherman, and as a charter-boat deckhand. He’s netted experience in seafood restaurant kitchens, and has written extensively about cooking fish and shellfish, including his new book, “Hook, Line, and Supper.”

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(Hank Shaw/Contributed)

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After completing the Alabama leg of his book tour just recently, he even took a break to fish for red snapper and grouper off Dauphin Island. He says the Gulf of Mexico and Mobile Bay are among his favorite places to fish, where he also angles for Spanish mackerel, sheepshead, and tripletail.

“A lot of people know the fishing is amazing in Alabama,” says Shaw, who now lives in California. “It’s why I keep coming here.”

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Published in May, “Hook, Line, and Supper” is Shaw’s fifth cookbook. All are odes to his passion for cooking food harvested by hunting, fishing, and foraging.

Shaw knows his fish and game from head to tail. He was tapped as consulting editor for both the wild game and the fish and seafood sections of the kitchen classic, “The Joy of Cooking,” and he’s written for Food & Wine, Garden & Gun, and Field and Stream magazines.

Part tutorial and part cookbook, the recipes in “Hook, Line, and Supper” explore the culinary possibilities for both freshwater and saltwater fish, fin and shell.  It’s a guide for catching or buying, transporting, storing, prepping, and cooking including advice on how to tailor the recipes to what grows and swims where the reader lives.

“The whole point of the book is to get away from species-specific cooking,” he says during lunch before a book-tour stop in Homewood. “There are virtually no recipes where if you use wahoo versus snapper versus speckled trout that you’ll ruin the dish.”

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(Holly A. Heyser/Contributed)

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Shaw developed some recipes specifically for the book, and adapted others using classic preparations from around the world, including the Sichuan whole fish, smoked Alaskan salmon, and New Orleans-style barbecue shrimp. Maine Clam Chowder is a family heirloom that dates back more than a century.

The recipe for Gulf Fish Stew, included below, derives from a fishing trip to Mobile Bay with a friend from Alabama named Joe Baya, Shaw writes in the preamble. Built around black-and-white-striped sheepshead, a popular Gulf fish with sweet flesh from its crustacean diet, his version includes hominy corn, black-eyed peas, and okra.

“A final piece to this stew is very, very southern: Conecuh sausage,” he adds. “Those of you who know, know. For those of you who don’t, Conecuh is to Alabama what Taylor ham is to New Jersey: a breakfast meat with a cult following. It’s a proprietary recipe, and there is nothing exactly like it.”

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(Holly A. Heyser/Contributed)

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Shaw’s tour stops in Alabama included a dinner at Acre restaurant in Auburn, and signings at both Little Professor Bookstore in Homewood and The Noble South bookstore in Mobile. “Hook, Line, and Supper” also is sold at most retail or online bookstores, and via Shaw’s website, honest-food.net.

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(Holly A. Heyser/Contributed)

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Gulf Fish Stew

From “Hook, Line, and Supper” from H&H Books (2021)

Serves 8

Cavender’s is an all-purpose Greek seasoning made in Arkansas. Greek-style seasonings from Birmingham restaurants, including Demetri’s, will work as a substitute. Shaw says you can use frozen or canned veggies in a pinch. 

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3 tablespoons bacon fat or vegetable oil

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1 large yellow or white onion, chopped

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½ pound fresh okra, sliced (or 1 cup dried)

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2 teaspoon Cavender’s seasoning (optional)

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1 quart chicken or seafood stock

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1 quart water

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1 cup crushed tomatoes

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Salt

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2 cups cooked hominy or other corn

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2 cups cooked black-eyed peas or butter beans

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1 pound Conecuh sausage or other smoked sausage, sliced

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2 pounds sheepshead or other fish, cut into 1-inch chunks

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¼ cup chopped chives or parsley

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Saltine crackers (optional)

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In a large soup pot, heat the bacon fat over medium-high heat and saute the onion, stirring often, until it just begins to color around the edges, about 5 to 8 minutes.

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Add the okra and Cavender’s seasoning and stir well. Saute this for 3 minutes or so if you have fresh or frozen okra. If you’re using dried just mix it around a bit.

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Pour in the stock, water, and crushed tomatoes. Bring to a simmer and add salt to taste. Add the hominy, beans, and sausage. Simmer – don’t boil – for 15 minutes.

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Add the fish and simmer another 10 minutes. Stir in the chopped chives and serve. If you want to bulk this up a bit, crush saltines into the soup while eating.

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