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A 2013 bicycle trip through Haiti while filming a documentary inspired brothers Nathan and Michael Pocus to start importing premium coffee beans from the Caribbean nation to roast back home in Birmingham. Three years later, the cycling enthusiasts opened Domestique Coffee.
Domestique now has two cafes and a roastery in the Birmingham area, with plans for a breakfast-and-coffee space in a new Cahaba Cycles location slated for Homewood. The company also makes Hero Doughnuts’ signature draft latte cold-brew coffee.
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When freshly picked, coffee beans are encased in cherry-like pulpy fruit that is quickly removed at a local mill ether by water (wet process) or baked in the sun (traditional dry process). Once dried and sorted, the sage-green beans are ready for export.
Roasters like Domestique apply heat to reduce the beans’ moisture level and turn them dark brown. Now the beans are ready to grind and brew.
Nathan sat down recently to talk about getting beans from plant to cup. The conversation has been edited for length and clarity.
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You offer a variety of coffee beans from several different countries. How do you source the beans?
In Guatemala, we work directly with a farm. Other places we work with co-ops. Typically, the co-op manages or owns a mill.
What happens at the mill?
It’s taking off the fruit. The washed process creates the most uniformity in the green bean itself. You get a lot more of the chocolatey notes out of the coffee. But it takes so much water. In Ethiopia or places prone to drought, they’re like, “Do we sell coffee or drink water?”
How do you choose a particular bean?
Michael, my brother, is the head of coffee. We get samples of a few different varietals or lots that we’re looking at from a particular farm. Michael does a roast and we decide which we want.
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What happens when the green beans arrive? What is a ‘cupping?’
Michael roasts small amounts at a few different profiles, different heat curves and times. We’ll get five samples for us to decide which profile we want.
First, we grind them and go down the line smelling the bouquet, which in my opinion is a really important part of coffee. Then we fill the cupping vessel with hot water at a 100:1 ratio (water to ground coffee; the coffee we drink usually is an 18:1 ratio).
The coffee stays on top. Putting a spoon through it is called “breaking the crust.” Then you slurp out of the cupping spoon. You don’t get strong flavors. You taste more nuance, minute flavor profiles.
What are some of those nuances?
It depends on the variety. Our Dominican Republic coffee, you’re going to get this wonderful rich strawberry flavor followed by dark chocolate. Ethiopian coffee, you might have these light, grassy notes or blueberry notes. Our Guatemalan, you might get caramel notes or walnut, these nutty flavors. It’s really fun to try the different varieties and see what you like.
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Tell us about your popular cold brew and how that process works.
It’s like low and slow in cooking. Long extraction pulls all the flavor that’s possible out of the beans. It doesn’t have heat applied to it, which keeps the acidity down. Peloton, our home blend, is brewed for 18 hours. From there it’s kegged.
Our Haitian Nitro is a 24-hour brew process. We infuse it forcing nitrogen in and expelling oxygen from the keg. That happens over a three-day period. It gives it a longer shelf life. After it’s poured the nitrogen pulls out all these aromatic notes. It’s a lively product.
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What’s the best way to make my morning coffee?
I don’t think there’s one way to do it. It’s whatever you’re the most comfortable with. It’s fun to experiment. You can get so many different flavors, depending on how you brew it.
When I make coffee at home, I like to do a submersion brew, like a French press, that fully extracts the flavor. But I don’t like the sediment that’s left behind so I’ll pour it through a filter. I can brew it, go feed the dog, and then finish without having to stand over it like a pour-over (brewing method).
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You need a scale to make sure you’re brewing at a 1:17 or 1:18 ratio, no matter what the brew method is. You want a consistent grind. If you use a cheap blade grinder you might have small grounds and large coarser grounds. You’ll have over-extracted parts and under-extracted parts and not get the best coffee. Another important factor is using hot enough water, 200 degrees.
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